Permanent makeup

The language of the manual:
From the author
Here is a detailed guide for novice masters of permanent makeup. To make it easier for you to perceive the information, I have divided it into blocks, created illustrations, checklists and other important recommendations.

Even a novice master can earn from $ 5 thousand a month. This figure depends solely on the quality of the work. Perfect results are impossible without basic knowledge. That is why I have structured them into a convenient format and am passing them to you.

I wish you success in mastering a new, complex, but profitable business!

Sincerely, Nina Fedorchenko
First of all, let's figure out: what is permanent makeup. Have you also often heard that PM is a regular tattoo or tattooing? There is no need to argue, there are really a lot of similarities. But there are more significant differences:

  • The depth of insertion of the needle and pigments (in permanent makeup, the coloring pigment remains in the upper layers of the epithelium, during tattooing, the pigment is introduced much deeper)
  • The composition of coloring substances (they are aggressive when tattooing, only soft glycerin-based dyes are used for PM)
  • Durability of the result (although tattooing lasts longer, still PM is considered safer)
  • Visual effect. In the techniques of tattooing, it is difficult to achieve light, airy, watercolor works. With permanent makeup, this effect is present. Therefore, the PM looks more natural and harmonious.
  • The painfulness of the procedure (tattooing is quite painful, due to the deep insertion of the needle. PM is just a tingling sensation)

Permanent makeup (from Lat. permanens "permanent"), as well as tattooing, contour makeup, micropigmentation, dermopigmentation penetration (introduction) of a special pigment into the verses of the dermis skin layers using a needle to create a stable pattern on the face to emphasize, highlight, correct, improve facial features or imitate ordinary makeup.

With the help of permanent makeup (hereinafter PM), it is possible to improve the shape of eyebrows, lips, eyelids, create a color correction of the oval of faces, blush on the cheeks, lighten dark circles under the eyes, and much more.

The PM technique is also used to correct postoperative scars, camouflage burns, reconstructive plastic surgery, camouflage vetiligo, creating a pattern in the area of eyebrow alopecia or other parts on the face and head. Usually the puncture depth is 0.3—0.5 mm.

Professional permanent makeup was formed on the basis of the achievements of electronics, precision mechanics, chemistry, knowledge of dermatology and medicine, modern ideas about aesthetics and accumulated practical experience. There are different techniques and techniques for performing PM. Post-treatment care is a VERY important part.

Particular attention should be paid to the fact that the primary tattoo procedure involves an upcoming correction to achieve the desired result. Even the most highly qualified and experienced master cannot reliably assume how the client's body will react to the coloring pigment that was introduced under the skin during the procedure.
There are two ways to apply PM

Hardware tattooing is performed using a special device in which an electric motor drives a needle (or needles of different configurations). This type of PM is the safest method of correction performed in basic techniques:

  • Powder spraying (using the same color, smooth transition from the tip of the eyebrow to the beginning).
  • Hair technique (a combination of delicate and dark tones, gives a visual 3D volume and favorably emphasize even the lightest eyebrows).
  • Mixed technique (includes combination of hair technique and powder spraying)
Manual tattooing (from the English microblading) is performed with a needle or needles of different configurations, fixed in a special handle-holder - manipulator, which is set in motion by the hand of a specialist, by drawing each hair. Manual tattooing is performed in basic techniques:

  • The hair technique of application is the most difficult type of tattooing, requiring high professionalism from the master. The master controls the color, slope and thickness of the traced hairs.
  • Shadow technique creates the effect of velvet, due to the pixelation of pigment in the skin. The main disadvantage of this type of PM is its traumaticity compared to hardware.
We will not delve into the history of the tattoo as such. But you probably guessed that the PM has a direct connection with her. Since the time of Cleopatra, mankind has learned to inject natural pigments under the skin with bamboo sticks.

A real revolution in the tattoo world was made by New York tattoo artist Samuel O'Reilly. He created the first electrical apparatus for these procedures.

A few decades later, Samuel's invention was used by surgeon Crovell Bird. When his patient's eyelashes fell out, he corrected the situation with the help of permanent makeup, returning the person to a pretty appearance and self-confidence.

However, at that time there was no concept of “permanent makeup". He was introduced a little later by Pati Pavlik, a wonderful American makeup artist and marketer. Thanks to her makeup skills, she successfully managed to apply the experience of a surgeon and master a new procedure. It was enough to slightly improve the device by making the needles thinner.

Then, thanks to marketing skills, Pavlik's Party (pictured) rapidly made the procedure popular. It was 1979.
If you are determined to become a tattoo artist, then first of all you need to evaluate your financial capabilities, since tattooing is not cheap, not only for clients, but also for masters.

Another important point is that you need to have the appropriate moral and psychological qualities for such work.

So, what qualities do you need to have in order to succeed in this profession?

1. A professional never speaks ill of his colleagues and competitors. It is not necessary to raise your shares at the expense of others, it is unprofessional in any profession.

2. A professional master is always calm and resistant to stressful situations and will never allow himself to raise his voice to the client.

3. The master is always honest with his clients.

4. He is responsible for his work.

3. A professional is constantly improving, because PM is such an industry where you constantly need to learn: they study new techniques, develop their own working methods and techniques. To receive a special education, you must pass with full responsibility. The money spent on your own knowledge is the most important investment that will pay off over time.
Among the main options for obtaining the necessary skills, the main ones are:

  • Specialized training courses.
  • Private lessons-courses from a professional with experience and experience in the industry.
  • Training and internship at beauty salons and studios.

No matter which of the options you choose, an important component is gaining experience, and for this:

  • Do not waste time – at work, your thoughts should be occupied only with your profession and direct duties. Even flipping through the pages of social networks, you can be inspired by the works of other masters.
  • Listen to the wishes and listen to the requests of your customers. Learn to feel your client.
  • Watch. Learn and train.
  • Ask aptly and on time, "who asks – he does not fornicate" – says the Ukrainian proverb.
Design of the work area. Sanitary standards.

If you open your salon, then you will have to study exactly the sanitary standards that you need to adhere to for this type of business. If you do not comply with them, the controlling state agencies will simply not issue you a work permit or suspend it.

In addition, the health of customers and your reputation depend on compliance with sanitary standards. Therefore, this part of the business should be approached with increased responsibility and attention.

Finishing materials

In the decoration of the premises, it is permissible to use only those materials that are authorized by the Ministry of Health of Ukraine and are easily disinfected and sanitized. The floor should be made of smooth and even materials – this contributes to disinfection and effective cleaning. For the convenience of wet cleaning, the walls must be covered with moisture-resistant materials.

Ventilation system

Beauty companies use a lot of cosmetics during the day. Each of them has its own flavor, their mixing and layering can negatively affect the well-being of customers and craftsmen. A well-designed ventilation system with a properly calculated capacity will ventilate the room in time.


Gosstandart recommends using natural lighting as much as possible: make large windows oriented to the sunny side, but at the same time they must be equipped with attics from the sun from above.

Natural lighting is the best option for the eyes. Artificial lighting should not be very bright, so that the eyes do not get tired, but also not dim. The tattoo artist's workplace needs to be equipped with additional light sources.

Disinfection and sterility

The client, having chosen your salon, trusts the masters not only his appearance, but also his health. Taking care of the client's health, namely, timely sterilization and disinfection of tools and work surfaces is an inseparable component of the salon's work.

This is especially true for procedures where tools that violate the skin are used. For them, it is mandatory to install ultraviolet and sterilizers and dry-burning cabinets.

To prevent transmission of infection through tools, it is important to strictly observe all the conditions and stages of cleaning. It is important to equip all cabinets with an air disinfection system. There are always disinfectants in the cabin in the amount of a month's supply with the appropriate state certificates.


All specialists must undergo a medical examination regularly, every six months. Its results are recorded in the personal medical books of employees and stored in the administration.

The staff must work in replaceable or disposable clothes. For the cold period of the year, the masters should have a change of shoes.

All responsibility for compliance with sanitary standards lies with the head of the beauty company. If violations are detected, the SES imposes fines, which will have a bad effect on the reputation and image of your beauty business. In addition, you may lose customers. Therefore, it is very important to comply with state sanitary rules and regulations. A clean and cozy hall, a neat appearance of the masters, sterile tools and work surfaces, proper lighting, as well as fresh air in your beauty salon – all this is sure to be noticed by customers. After all, everyone loves places where they are taken care of, especially if it concerns health.

We hope that cleanliness in your salon will take its place of honor. And your beauty business will delight you with a net profit!
PERMANENT MAKEUP (PMU) is a cosmetic service, the qualitative result of which is usually achieved in 2 skin pigmentation procedures.


The initial procedure requires the master to be careful to get acquainted with the skin and not to add more dye than is necessary for subsequent corrections. Here a sketch is selected and approved as the basis of the form for further work to the desired result.

The result after the 1st procedure is evaluated no earlier than 1 month. An additional "correction" procedure is done according to the same sketch form.

When carrying out additional procedures , it is achieved:

  • more uniform distribution of the dye in the skin;
  • a more precise match to the desired color and shade;
  • a more stable result.

The correction is scheduled after 1 month.

The coloring substance in the pigment is injected into the upper layer of the skin using a special device at the tip of the needle and is perceived by the immune system as a foreign body. In the process of "wearing" PM, the dye is gradually rejected by the body.

Depending on the individual characteristics of the immune system, the dye can persist on different areas of the skin for different times – from several months to an indefinite number of years. Periodic procedures are required to maintain the achieved quality of PM. Usually the interval between them is from 8 months to 2 years.

Competent post-treatment care with the help of recommended medications and hygiene practices favor the prevention of complications during healing.

It is not recommended to select medications for post-treatment care independently, without advice from a master.

The external restoration of the skin takes place within 3-15 days. The internal restoration of the skin takes place within 1-2 months. An additional procedure is possible no earlier than 4 weeks later.

Why do I need the "Informed consent of the client" in the permanent account?

The provision of high-quality and safe permanent makeup services and the legal support of the master in case of conflict situations "master client" or "salon client" imply the presence of a well-written informed consent of the client

It is difficult to overestimate the importance of well–written informed consent (hereinafter referred to as IP). The informed consent of the client is a legal document, the form and content of which are specific to various services.

The main feature of permanent makeup is the combination of two components in it: biological and aesthetic.

The biological component of permanent makeup is expressed in the fact that the procedure affects the physiological processes in the body, disrupting their natural course. Without delving into the details of these processes, it is necessary to understand that the body's reaction to PM will be individual for each client. Firstly, the master should know this, and secondly, at least in the first approximation, the client should understand this.

What is it for? It is fundamentally important to ensure that the client understands some ambiguity of the consequences of permanent makeup procedures, taking into account their individual perception by a specific organism. The fact is that precisely because of the above-mentioned reactions of the body to the procedures, the recovery period after the procedures proceeds differently, the pigment also manifests itself individually, further (in the process of "wearing" permanent makeup) removal of the dye from the skin also occurs purely individually. The client must be psychologically ready for this in order to respond adequately. In this case, he will work with the master to achieve a high-quality result, including by performing procedures that complement the first one and in the future come to quality-maintaining procedures in a timely manner.

With this approach, the client becomes an ally of the master and does not demand the impossible from him. Including a 100% guaranteed result from the first procedure and the durability of the result for a precisely predictable period. Honest and sufficiently detailed explanation of these issues to the client is the prevention of a number of standard, unfortunately, conflict situations. It reduces the chances that the client will want to change the master. And it will also allow the master to have more clients with a finished, excellent permanent makeup and employees, therefore, a visual advertisement for him. As a result, a qualified consultation and a conscious signature under a competently compiled IP is the way to the commercial success of a permanent makeup artist.

The aesthetic component of permanent makeup is revealed in the very name of the service and in its purpose. And the purpose of permanent makeup is the embodiment of the idea of the client as a customer and the master as a makeup artist to create a color solution on certain areas of the skin of the face to achieve the necessary aesthetic effect for a period of several months to several years.

This should be explained to the client and reflected in the IP. The client must clearly understand that the master is fulfilling his order. Of course, when discussing the sketch of the future work, the master expresses his opinion as a makeup artist, but the result of the discussion is the final approval by the client of the sketch of the future permanent makeup. The client's responsibility for the sketch is one of the key provisions of informed consent. At the same time, it should be understood that the sketch defines the boundaries of the skin area within which the master performs permanent makeup procedures. However, the master himself is definitely responsible for the selection of the pigment.

A well-written informed consent ensures:

  • insurance against claims against the master in case of individual reactions of the body to procedures that do not depend on the master;
  • prevention of conflict situations and the basis for their early resolution;
  • moral and legal responsibility of the client for medical and other contraindications.
The PM procedure on the lips can provoke the appearance of a herpetic reaction. To avoid this, the preventive use of appropriate antiviral drugs is recommended.

Despite the fact that PM by nano-spraying has a number of advantages. Its application should be treated responsibly, since there are contraindications for this procedure, both absolute and relative.

Absolute contraindications:

  • Exacerbation of chronic diseases,
  • Inflammatory processes of any location, •Neoplasms of any etiology (moles, birthmarks, vascular asterisks, melanomas, adenomas, etc.),
  • A tendency to form keloid scars.

Relative contraindications:

  • Diabetes mellitus. Reduced blood clotting (severe bleeding, poor healing, rejection, more than one correction will be needed),
  • Epilepsy (presence of an accompanying person),
  • Hypertension (pre-administration of blood pressure reducing drugs),
  • Herpes, weakened immunity (pre-administration of antiviral drugs),
  • Allergy,
  • Psoriasis (in the acute stage or the presence of plaques in the PM area), • Inflammation of the trigeminal nerve (possible "skew" PM), • Aesthetic infiltrations (botox, fillers, peeling; PM is recommended before other procedures or not earlier than 45 days),
  • The presence of scars, scars (PM is carried out after 1.5–2 years after healing),
  • Restoration of halos (carried out 12-15 months after surgery),
  • Critical days (during this period, the pain threshold is significantly reduced),
  • Pregnancy and lactation.
  • Moles, warts, papillomas in the PM zone;
  • Dermatitis, herpes, congestion, burns (less than 1 year);
  • Menstrual cycle period;

The presence of these grounds is the basis for the refusal of the PM, but it is permissible.

In addition, other individual medical contraindications may be identified.
The issue of the absence of contraindications is recommended to be resolved with your attending physician or by consulting with specialized doctors in medical and diagnostic centers.
To know how to work with the skin, you need to know not only what functions it performs, but also its structure, so as not to damage it once again, place the pigment correctly and get a good result and healing.

The skin is the outer covering of the body, which protects against a wide range of external influences, participates in respiration, thermoregulation, metabolic and many other processes, in addition, the skin is a massive receptor field of various types of surface sensitivity


Depending on the condition of the skin in the areas intended for micropigmentation, the procedure is carried out by one of the PM methods, but the applied pigment is perceived differently by the skin in different areas. Such special parts of the skin as eyelids, eyebrows, lips, breast areola, areas with hair on which the procedure is performed, as well as areas where there were or are scars, burns or pigmentation, have certain structural features. Special attention should be paid to these features when choosing techniques and methods of work used in a certain area. permanent.


The skin healing process helps the specialist to better explain to his clients what happens in their skin after the permanent makeup procedure and how best to take care of the PM area.

This allows you to understand how to invest the pigment correctly, how color stabilization takes place in the skin and how this process affects the final shade viewed through the skin. Procedure

micropigmentation is associated with skin injury. The skin has a special ability, which consists in the ability of self-healing.

The complex process of wound healing depends on their depth and occurs in different ways, if we are talking about superficial damage to the skin, if only the epidermis is damaged, or about deeper damage that damaged not only the epidermis, but also the dermis.

When the body is damaged, it reacts to it and begins the healing process. If the epidermis is damaged, healing will last 1-2 days, and full recovery in 28 days. If the injury is much deeper, then healing will last a little longer than 3-5 days, and full recovery after 40 days.


Injury to the skin is one of the options for action on the body, causes reverse reactions. You need to understand that even minor damage leads to the same responses, it's just that some reactions are not so pronounced.

To do this, let's see how the body reacts to a simple cut. The body's reaction to injury: any injury is a painful feeling, the body experiences a certain stress and reacts with the release of stress hormones. Adrenaline, norepinephrine and cortisol are the three hormones that give the corresponding effect. Each of the hormones leads to a response both locally and throughout the body. The smaller the injury, the less stress, the weaker the reaction to the release of hormones.

The patient will feel a heartbeat, possibly an increase in blood pressure, dizziness and even nausea. The body mobilizes all reserves to fight damage. In the area of the pigment location, a spasm of blood vessels occurs, especially small ones, to reduce bleeding, macrophage cells move into this area of damage to fight possible infection, platelets – to close the wound and eliminate bleeding. This is the first stage of the reaction, then the body seeks to block this zone and create a leukocyte layer to limit the inflammatory process.

There is no need to be afraid of possible reactions in the PM zone, both anesthesia of the patient and knowledge of his chronic diseases, which can negatively affect the healing process, are required.

When you inject pigment under the skin, you need to remember that it is a foreign element and the body perceives it that way. There is a process of pigment invasion, as the lymphatic system removes all toxins and decay products from the injured area, and microscopic parts of pigments enter the blood and lymphatic bed, therefore it is necessary to use inert and safe pigments.

After the procedure, do not apply anything, you need to allow the body to cope with the imbalance in the body. It is important to prepare the client for the procedure, including the use of drugs that inhibit melanin (to eliminate post-traumatic hyperpigmentation).

If you want a good and long-term result, plan your steps correctly and intelligently, prepare the client and prepare yourself.
Each person has a certain color type, which remains unchanged throughout life. And no matter how hard they tried to change something in their appearance - to recolor their hair, whiten their face, fight with age spots and freckles — he will not change.

There are no mixed variants: each belongs only to a specific color type. It is the color type that determines which colors will suit a particular person, and which palettes should be avoided. Correctly selected tones will emphasize the dignity of appearance, distract attention from imperfections, make you look younger, while a wrongly defined color scheme can make you look sickly, tired, aged.

Skin color type

Having determined the color type of the client's appearance, PM masters rarely use only one color. Applying the rules of coloristics, the base colors are mixed in the right proportions to achieve the desired tone.

The warm color type has certain appearance parameters. The shades of hair and skin
are mostly warm. The eyes are brown with a touch of yellow and brown, the skin is tanned,
peachy. To get the desired result in permanent makeup, it is recommended to use a neutral + cold pigment.

The cold color type has its own innate external data. Representatives of this type have blue eyes without inclusions of yellow and brown, pale skin with closely spaced red capillaries, veins of a purple hue.

The hair is a cold, muted shade. You can create a harmonious makeup color using a neutral + warm mix, as well as just a warm pigment.

A neutral or mixed color type does not have a visible contrast between the color of the eyes, hair and skin. The eyes may be gray interspersed with yellow and brown, the skin is light, pale, the hair is light brown.

The ideal shade for representatives of a neutral color type is obtained by mixing a neutral shade with a cold one. This combination allows you to achieve a graphic, vivid effect. For a more natural makeup, a neutral + warm mix is used.
In most articles about permanent makeup, they write that the duration of tattooing depends on the individual characteristics of the body. This is true, because the skin is not a lifeless canvas, but a living structure. And the main individual feature will be its type. It's no secret that there are several of them: oily, dry, combined, etc.

We will tell you how permanent makeup behaves on different skin types and which tattoo technique is preferable in each case.

We should immediately note that it is not worth selecting a permanent "in absentia", based only on recommendations from the Internet. It is better to come to the master for a consultation and find out which technique and pigment is right for you.
However, there are some tips on choosing a tattoo for different skin types:

Permanent makeup on oily skin

It becomes greasy due to the increased activity of the sebaceous glands. The sebum that they secrete constantly and in large quantities affects the durability of the pigment. Even if the tattoo is done perfectly and the pigment is the best, the shape and color will go away faster than on dry skin.

These are the features of an oily skin type, and there's nothing you can do about it. But this does not mean that you need to give up the pleasure of wearing expressive eyebrows or lips. It's just that tattooing on oily skin often requires a refresh – once a year, or even more often.

What permanent makeup techniques are NOT suitable:

  • Hairline, which involves the introduction of pigment in thin strokes. Due to the increased fat content of the skin, these strokes lose clarity, "inflate", and the drawing looks sloppy.
  • Powder spraying. With this technique, the pigment is injected into the skin to a minimum depth. In fact, nothing prevents you from making such a tattoo even on oily skin, but it will be worn very little.

All this applies only to eyebrow tattooing, since many sebaceous glands are concentrated in this area. There are much fewer of them in the area of the lips and eyelids, so any technique is suitable here.

For oily skin, shadow spraying without clear boundaries is suitable. When working with this type of skin, it is recommended to use:

  • long-stroke equipment up to 3.5 mm;
  • cartridges 0.35RLMT;
  • hybrid pigments.

The depth of pigment implantation into the skin is intense

Permanent makeup on dry skin

Here everything is the opposite: there are few sebaceous glands, the hypodermic layer (fat layer) is minimal. Permanent makeup on dry skin (including eyebrow tattooing) lasts 2-3 times longer than on oily skin.

But there are nuances here too. After administration, the pigment is quickly, almost instantly fixed in the skin cells. A deep and dense introduction, as with classical shading, will give too rich a color that will look alien on the face.

Therefore, for dry skin types, tattoo techniques with a small depth and minimal dusting are recommended: shadow shading, "pixel" eyebrows, etc. However, the good old hair tattooing is also suitable, if the pigment is introduced shallowly, and mixed techniques.

With age, the activity of the sebaceous glands decreases in everyone, but dry skin does not always mean age–related or vice versa. The age permanent has its own characteristics, they will be discussed below.

With dry skin, it is recommended to use surface spraying, since a deeply fixed pigment can provoke its leakage, especially in the area of work with the eyelids. As a result, after healing, an undesirable, more saturated color will turn out, which will look alien on the face.

When working on the creation of permanent makeup for dry or age-related skin, it is used:

  • short-stroke equipment 2.5-3 mm;
  • cartridges 0.30RLMT;
  • mineral pigments.

The depth of the pigment implantation into the skin is superficial.

Permanent makeup on normal and combination skin

Normal skin occurs in less than 10% of women. But in terms of tattooing, they were really lucky. Absolutely any technique will do, as long as the master is able to perform it. When choosing the shade and the method of introducing the pigment, other factors are taken into account: the color of the eyes and hair roots, the width of the bridge of the nose, etc.

As for the combination skin (by the way, this is the most common type), the activity of the sebaceous glands is evaluated here in the area of pigment injection. If this is eyebrow tattooing, then most likely the skin in the forehead area will shine, so you need to follow the rules of permanent makeup for oily skin.

For the normal type, that is, for skin that does not have pores, does not get greasy and does not peel off, the following set of materials is suitable:

  • short-stroke and long-stroke equipment from 2.5 to 3.5 mm;
  • 0.30RLLT cartridges;
  • mineral and hybrid pigments.

The depth of pigment implantation for this type of skin is average.

With a combined skin type, the activity of the sebaceous glands in the area of pigment administration is primarily evaluated. If this area is shiny, the PM rules should be applied when working with oily skin.

To create permanent makeup on combination skin, it is recommended to use:

  • long-stroke device up to 3.5 mm;
  • cartridges 0.30RLLT-0.35RLMT;
  • mineral and hybrid pigments.

The depth of pigment implantation for the combined type is average.

How to determine the skin type beforehand?

The simplest method is a test with a napkin, described a million times on the Internet. But most articles miss 2 important points:

The first is that the napkin should not be an ordinary dining room, but a thin cosmetic (they are also called matting).
The second test should be carried out 2 hours after washing, not earlier and not later.

Many unknowingly take thick table napkins and rejoice that they have normal skin (but in fact it is oily), or conduct a test without first washing (at the end of the day, even dry skin will shine slightly).

Tattooing on age-related skin

As we wrote above, the thickness of all skin layers decreases with age. So that the tattoo does not look too bright and unnatural, choose techniques without clear and bright strokes – shadow shading, pixel spraying, 3D tattooing.

Hair and contour techniques are definitely not suitable: clear lines on age-related skin will look caricatured. This is especially true of eyelid tattooing. In this area, due to the low turgor, the skin "floats" onto the eyelash growth line, so smooth graphic lines are inappropriate.

Also, age–related skin does not accept bright cold shades that emphasize age-related changes - only soft and warm tones.
Anesthesia in cosmetology is always local anesthesia. Local anesthesia is analgesia of a certain area of the body by a violation of the conduction of nerves innervating this area. An analgesic effect is achieved by injecting drugs called local anesthetics into the tissues.

Anesthesia with local anesthetics is characterized by:
  • relatively low risk of undesirable consequences, the same - safety and possibility of use, both for adults and children,
  • relatively weak effect on the fetus, which makes it possible to use it during pregnancy.

Local anesthesia can be:

  • Application
  • Injection (infiltration, conduction, spinal, epidural, combined)

Local anesthesia has a very wide application and is effectively used in almost all areas of cosmetology.

The choice of a local anesthetic depends on the following factors:

  • Individual patient tolerance - the patient's pain relief experience is taken into account;
  • Allergic history;
  • Individual sensitivity to drugs;
  • The presence of concomitant somatic diseases;
  • Taking certain medications.

The safety and effectiveness of a local anesthetic is characterized by the presence of general and local reactions to the administration of anesthetics. At the same time, their concentration and method of administration should be taken into account. Effectiveness is understood as the rate of onset of anesthesia, its severity and duration.

Infiltration, conduction and application anesthesia is performed by the master independently in the conditions of the treatment room.
Application anesthesia (it is also superficial or terminal) – consists in applying local anesthetics to the skin or mucous membranes. For surface anesthesia, spraying solutions of local anesthetics, applying them in the form of gels, ointments, etc. are used.

Anesthesia for PM can be primary and secondary.

Primary – applied before starting work, on undamaged skin;
Secondary – applied to the skin during the procedure to reduce pain.

The most popular drug on the Russian market was EMLA (EMLA – Eutectic Mixture of Local Anesthetics). In its composition it has lidocaine and prilocaine in equal parts.

The cream is applied in the form of an application with a thin layer on the affected area 20-60 minutes before the procedure. An important condition for the successful use of an anesthetic cream is the presence of an occlusive dressing. Its absence leads to evaporation of water from the cream, which means that insufficient moistening of the surface epithelium and a decrease in the adsorption of the mixture.

Secondary anesthesia is more often used during work in the form of medications Sustaine or Professional medical anesthetic preparation Goochie, Nano Meter 2 Minutes, Goochie A36 gel (analog of the well-known drug Sustaine).

Sustain Blue Gel (Sustain) is the most popular — an anesthetic that is suitable for all types of PM, used as a secondary anesthesia. Contains 4% lidocaine, 2% tetracaine and 0.2% epinephrine.

The presence of epinephrine in the formula gives two great advantages: it significantly reduces the risk of edema and bleeding and ensures the duration of exposure (Sustain Blue Gel begins to "work" 2-5 minutes after application and acts for about 1 hour).

After application, Sustain Blue Gel penetrates the skin to the level of the dermis and spreads under the skin: if after 2-5 minutes the skin surface turns white, it means that the drug has already acted. Sustain Blue Gel does not require repeated application — and this distinguishes it from other anesthetics.
Asepsis (from the Greek aseptos — not subject to rotting; synonym "aseptic method") is a method of preventing infection by preventing the penetration of microbes into the wound, tissues or body cavities during surgical operations, dressings and other manipulations.

Asepsis, like antiseptics, involves the use of the same means of chemical and physical effects on the microflora, but their fundamental difference is that asepsis is aimed at preventing the introduction of pathogens, and antiseptics is aimed at combating already introduced microbes.

The tasks of asepsis include disinfection of objects in contact with the surface of the PM zone, as well as protection from contact with objects that cannot be freed from microbes.

The main element of asepsis is sterilization. The absence of microbes on instruments, materials, etc., in contact with the PM zone, ensures the prevention of contact and implantation infection. It includes a number of techniques for handling sterile and non-sterile objects, rules of conduct during the procedure, as well as a system of measures that minimizes the possibility of penetration of microbes by air, droplet or endogenous routes.

Antiseptics (from the Greek anti — against and septikos — putrefactive, suppurating; synonym of the anti—putrefactive method) is a method of treating bacterially contaminated and infected wounds, purulent, anaerobic and putrefactive processes by combating infectious agents that have invaded the wound or tissue.

Antiseptics are carried out mainly with the help of chemical and biological agents that have the ability to delay the reproduction of microbes (bacteriostatic effect) and kill them (bactericidal effect).

Disinfection is a set of measures aimed at the destruction of pathogenic microorganisms in the external environment. Only disposable materials do not require disinfection and sterilization.
Color systems are the classification of colors in a certain order using color tone, lighting, saturation, and the ability to build a gradient.

There are more than 40 color systems, starting with ordinary colored circles, atlas layouts, fan-shaped palettes, digital tables and ending with modern color pantone palettes by Johannes Itten.

I. Newton was the first who proposed to divide the color according to a scientific approach. This is a real linear spectrum of colors to study their relationship and the possibility of placing them in a color circle.

Newton's color circle includes seven sectors that are placed sequentially and radially: red, orange, yellow, green, cyan, blue and lilac colors. This placement is a fairly convenient tool for calculating color mixing.

People who work with colors and select harmonious shades use Goethe's color circle. The basic concept of the Goethe circle is the organization of the circle with the main three colors: red, yellow, blue, which are placed in the corners of an equilateral triangle, between which there were colors formed as a result of mixing colors:

purple (between red and blue),
orange (between yellow and red),
green (between yellow and blue).

We will take a closer look at the color circle of Johannes Itten: all the colors in the circle are divided into cold and warm. Shades of green, purple, blue are cold shades. Shades of yellow, red, orange are warm.

But the shades of some red colors: fuchsia, foam are cold, and some shades of green are warm (the presence of yellow). The remaining shades can be obtained by mixing the main ones.

Analog shades (obtained by mixing colors placed side by side on a color circle) are the most successful for permanent makeup. Considering that we are applying pigment to the skin, and not doing makeup to the client, it is necessary to take into account the skin tone (cold or warm type) in order to predict the future result.

It is important what tone is on the client's lips. If the lips have a cold pigment tone and plus a cold pigment tone, we can get cold lips (bluish or purple), since our own tone + pigment tone will enhance the cold shade.

It is not necessary to violate the depth of the introduction of the pigment. If we use cold tones, it is always necessary to give a warm substrate with a warm pigment to avoid an unpredictable result.

The opposite colors in the circle neutralize each other when mixed. They create a neutral shade. For example, red + green in equal proportions will give a neutral brown color.

Neutral color combinations:

Red-orange + green-blue
Blue + Yellow Blue-purple + Yellow-orange
Yellow-green + red-purple

Knowing these basics and examples, we can use them to correct unsuccessful makeup.

Neutralizing the pigment:
Red olive tone. The bluish tint of the eyelids is red-brown with yellow content. Orange (orange) converts all pigments to warm.

The modern study of color consists in the study of color as a separate discipline, which describes the processes of interaction between color and human visual organs. All theories of color mixing are the regularity of the visual analyzer


To master the doctrine of the basics of color requires a lot of practical skills in mixing colors (the Law of Additive mixing – obtaining certain colors by mixing / mixing them).

Color mixing can be divided into two main directions: additive displacement and subtractive mixing (from the English subtract – subtract, obtaining colored light by subtracting its spectral components from white).

There are eleven such laws of mixing, differing from each other in quality and quantity.

Additive mixing – mixing of 3 colors.
Subtractive blending – describes the transparency of color layers or color filters.

Both methods are based on the quantum theory of color construction.

Integrated mixing is a way of mixing colors, thanks to such a color pigment, it is first mixed and then applied in one color layer. Its main principle is the redistribution of color.


While mixing the six primary colors, we get new bright colors, and by changing their ratio we get warmer or colder shades. That is why after mixing we can achieve a warm or cold red shade on the lips. However, the brown color can become warm or cold, it depends on the addition of various paints to the base (for PM pigments, this is the addition of correctors to achieve the desired result in work and during correction).

The depth and intensity of the color should always be achieved only by the amount of pigment applied.

Having mastered and improved his knowledge of coloristics, the PM master will have the opportunity to get a wide color palette for each individual client. In addition, this will allow the master to influence the undesirable change in the color of the pigment in the skin, neutralize the color of old pigments and dyes, revive and refresh the color or lighten it.

A good result will be obtained by the PM master who knows what tone to choose, how to get it by mixing, how it will look on the skin. Successful color correction is possible only when studying the features of the interaction of colors.


1. To understand which shade will go to the original color, sprinkle a drop of pigment on a wet napkin or sponge. The pigment will dissolve and along the edge of the color spot from the pigment, the shade that you will receive after healing will be visible. For example: black pigment will show along the edge of the pigment spot blue brown pigments show redness – this means that the eyebrows may be pink or reddish.

2. Black pigments give blue. Warm brown pigments should be treated carefully, no matter how beautiful they look on the bottle or cap - they can give an unnatural shade in the skin.

3. To get natural beautiful eyebrows, it is better to use at least 2 tones of the same color, one darker, the other lighter, or use a corrector.


Permanent makeup paint is a finished product that contains insoluble particles (pigments) and a binding liquid base (solvents, silicon dioxide, glycerin).

Pigments for permanent tattooing are coloring substances, with the help of which the visual effect of makeup is achieved.

All pigments, regardless of the brand, differ in chemical composition – organic, inorganic and hybrid.

Organic pigments.

Organic pigments are created on the basis of carbon components obtained by chemical synthesis. With the help of this type of dyes, it is convenient to work in the powder technique, since they assume a soft, light surface application. Also, organic pigments have a large palette of colors.

Organic pigments can come out in unnatural shades.Therefore, when working with them, you need to strictly follow the recommendations on coloristics. It is believed that organic pigments are more prone to fading and more often provoke allergic reactions.

Inorganic pigments.

The composition of inorganic pigments most often includes such components as metals, titanium, chromium iron oxides, ultramarine, manganese dust.

Inorganic pigments are more suitable for working in the hair technique. Allowing you to create the most clear, smooth and neat lines, in most cases with such pigments, one pass is enough.

Despite the high quality of inorganic pigments, they have a significant drawback: they are quite difficult to fit and have a small palette of shades.

Hybrid pigments.

Hybrid pigments contain both organic and inorganic elements.
The main advantage of hybrid pigments is that they have an excellent color preservation potential. The healed work will match 90% with the color chosen by the client. The color loss is only 5-10%.

Hybrid pigments are quite intense, so when working with them, be sure to take this into account. When you learn to feel the skin well, hybrid pigments can be used in their pure form. At the initial stage, choose the least intense shades or dilute the pigment.

Safety of pigments

Before using a new pigment in the work, the PM master must make sure of its quality.

To do this, experts check the material according to three criteria:

1. Composition. High-quality products do not contain iodine (I), bromine (Br), chlorine (Cl) in their composition. If these elements are present in the pigments, the makeup will not last long.

2. Hypoallergenic. If the client does the PM procedure for the first time, the master conducts a mandatory test for an allergic reaction to the client. A dye that has not provoked swelling, itching, irritation or inflammation can be used in work.

3. Availability of certification. When working with a new dye, it is worth making sure that the purchased pigments are certified. It is also necessary to check the country of the manufacturer and the shelf life of the products

How pigments fade

The resulting shade will fade over time. This is due to the characteristics of the body, which is trying to get rid of foreign bodies during internal processes.

Fading does not occur due to the renewal of the epidermis, the dye is implanted deeper. In owners of oily skin, the pigment is removed faster, so correction needs to be carried out more often. In older women, due to the slow course of metabolism, the color may last longer.

Due to the high content of iron oxide, inorganic dyes fade into shades of pink, salmon or reddish. Such a pigment lingers in the upper layers of the skin and over time a more expressive shade is obtained.

Natural pigments due to the content of hydrocarbon compounds fade through dirty, grayish shades.
General facial proportions

Basic knowledge of the anatomy of the face and its proportions, which should guide the master, will help to draw a high-quality sketch. To determine the facial features close to the ideal proportions, we will use the important points of the golden section:

The distance between the eyes should be equal to one eye length. From the outer corner of the eye and to the ear, the distance is about the same length. The beginning of the eyebrow runs along the line through the inner corner of the eye and the wing of the nose, and the end will be at the intersection point with the line drawn from the wing of the nose through the outer corner of the eye.

From the hairline to the eyebrows, the distance is the same as from the eyebrow line to the nose. And the gap between the chin and the lower lip is equal to one eye length.

The height of the chin is identical to the length of the eye.

The width of the lips is equal to the gap between the irises of the eyes. When connecting the points of the outer corners of the eyes and the point of the middle of the lips, we see an equilateral triangle.
The principle of the golden section

According to the golden ratio principle , the ideal proportions are determined by dividing the face with four parallel lines:

Along the upper edge of the forehead
Along the eyebrow line
At the base of the nose
At the bottom of the chin

The resulting proportions should be equal in height.

Stages of the procedure:

1. Acquaintance with the client (presence of contraindications (client agreement), determination of skin color, facial proportions, etc.).
2. Drawing a "sketch", taking into account the features of the face and the wishes of the client (sitting).
3. Anesthesia.
4. PM procedure (during the procedure, after the first pass, we apply secondary anesthesia).
5. We clean the client's skin, using massage lines.
6. We inform you about post-procedural care (memo).

PM eyebrows gives a special velvety, expressive eyebrows, it seems as if they are lined with shadows. As a rule, this technique is used to correct an unsuccessful eyebrow correction or improve one's own shape.

PM allows you to make the eyebrow longer, lift the head, accentuate the curve, make the tone more natural and expressive. The effect lasts from 9 months to 3 years, depending on the amount of pigment introduced into the skin.

Creating a sketch of eyebrows: work on 5 points

The correct construction of the eyebrow sketch is one of the most important stages of the permanent eyebrow makeup procedure and, a priori, the necessary skill for each eyebrow artist.

To achieve a successful result, the master must be a makeup artist, an artist, and a psychologist at the same time. In this article we will try to tell you about all the subtleties of building a universal sketch of symmetrical eyebrows.

Saying "universal", any master should understand that this technique is suitable for drawing symmetrical eyebrows on any face. At the same time, once again we want to draw attention to the fact that only by automating the drawing of a universal sketch, you will be able to create individual sketches for each of your clients, taking into account the features of the face shape and the client's wishes to create harmonious eyebrows. But this is the next step in working on eyebrows.

At the initial stage – only geometry! All masters, especially beginners, should remember that you should not chase fashion trends and impose the currently popular eyebrow shape. After all, the eyebrows you created will be with the client for quite a long time and he should be comfortable in this image. And classics, as you know, are always in fashion.

How to mark up an eyebrow sketch

And now we recall the course of school geometry. Building eyebrows on points is the most effective way to create harmonious eyebrows.
We outline 5 main points.

1. The starting point of the eyebrow body. To find it, we apply a pencil parallel to the nose so that it passes through the teardrop.

2. The point of fracture of the eyebrow. This point can be found in two ways: with wide—set eyes, we apply a pencil to the wing of the nose and draw a line through the pupil; with narrow-set eyes, through the iris.

3. The outer corner of the eyebrow. One edge of the pencil touches the wing of the nose, the second one passes through the outer corner of the eye.

4. The lower eyebrow line. Visually move the eye up. We measure the desired width of the eyebrow and draw two parallel lines from the head to the point of fracture, and then they narrow and go into a bend. Here it is important to observe one important rule: the tail of the eyebrow should never fall below this line!

5. The starting point of the eyebrow (the head of the eyebrow). This point is formed depending on the type of face. We retreat from the first point towards the bridge of the nose from 0.1 to 1 cm . This zone should always be soft, without clear lines. Another important rule: you can not radically go beyond the hair growth zone.

How to make symmetrical eyebrows

After you have completely drawn one eyebrow, you need to create a symmetrical second one. Here we must not forget that in nature, in principle, absolute symmetry is rare and human eyebrows are no exception.

The main thing in permanent makeup is that the new eyebrows do not emphasize the existing natural asymmetry, but compensate for it if possible. Masters should try to see that golden mean in the shape of the arrangement of the eyebrows and preserve (or create the missing) harmony of the face as a whole.

This is very difficult, and is due to the fact that there may be several criteria for making a decision, and sometimes they may contradict each other.

You only need to create a sketch in a sitting position! Otherwise, there may be serious errors in symmetry.

Types of facial asymmetry in the shape of eyebrows

Masters of permanent makeup most often meet with the following types of facial asymmetry, working with the shape of the eyebrows:

the middle line of the bridge of the nose is shifted to one eye;
the bridge of the nose is inclined to the right or left;
the brow ridges have different relief;
the eyes are located at different levels in relation to the horizon line;
the transition from the frontal bone to the temporal bone has a different steepness on the right and left.

In addition, the difficulty of assessing the symmetry of the eyebrow sketch may be due to the different height of hair growth on the right and left eyebrows.

Drawing a sketch of eyebrows

The main criterion for the quality of permanent makeup services is the aesthetic and moral satisfaction of the client from the achieved result. This can be achieved only due to the joint work of the master and the client.

A sketch is a clear vision of the boundaries of future work, convenience for the master, it is work without fear of losing important points under the influence of an anesthetic.

The sketch is the client's peace of mind, because the client must see how the healed tattoo will look, that is, already at this stage, the client should be able to present the future permanent makeup as accurately as possible and evaluate its aesthetic characteristics.

To design the borders of the sketch, you can use a white wax pencil or a concealer. It is better to draw the eyebrow itself with a cosmetic pencil of the desired shade (trying to accurately convey the shade and brightness of the healed eyebrows). After approving the sketch with the client and before applying anesthesia, it is recommended to put important points of the sketch with a permanent marker to fix permanent makeup.

Depending on the hair color, it is recommended to adhere to the following recommendations:

Brown-haired women are optimally suited to chocolate and coffee colors, as well as their various shades.
Red and blond — a warm color of a red-brown scale.
Girls with light brown hair are best suited for gray-brown shades.
Gray and brownish shades are best combined with gray hair.

PM technicians. Eyebrows

Choosing the technique of applying PM from a variety of types, the master should know what the result will be. He chooses the appropriate option depending on the characteristics of the skin type, face shape and the wishes of the client.

Among the wide variety of eyebrow techniques , the following methods should be highlighted:

1. Hair technique. With the help of the device, the master applies small strips of different shades with a dye. The traced strokes imitate hairs of different lengths, creating the most natural effect. Suitable for owners of rare and shapeless eyebrows.

2. Shadow shading is a technique whose main feature is the creation of a natural eyebrow shape. Suitable for girls whose eyebrows are thin and sparse or they are practically absent. The peculiarity of this technique is the ability to choose several options: soft shading, dense or 3D.

3. Powder technique. It is a spot application of pigment without clear lines and a defined contour. In this version, the eyebrows look as voluminous and natural as possible. Make-up in the spraying technique remains in the upper layers of the skin, that is, the procedure is carried out painlessly. After restoration, the hairs do not shine, but become matte, with the effect of using decorative powder.

4. Obmre is a technique with a soft transition from a natural shade at the bridge of the nose to a more intense one at the tips of the eyebrows. Suitable for owners of sensitive and oily skin. Spot application adds saturation to the eyebrows with neatly outlined smooth transitions. The result of tattooing does not look blurry on oily skin.

5. Nano-spraying allows you to fill voids and add density to eyebrows. In the process of work, the dye is broken into small splashes, creating a natural shadow on the eyebrows that will reach the owners of thin light skin and inconspicuous light eyebrows with an unexpressed contour.


Correction is a process during which the result obtained after the main PM procedure is perfected.

The correction procedure should be carried out no earlier than in a month. It is during this period of time that the damaged epidermis is completely restored and the skin heals. Correction carried out earlier than the above deadlines may cause additional traumatization, thereby not improving, but worsening the initial result.

It should be understood that the first procedure is an "acquaintance" with the skin (the same pigment lies on different skin and is fixed in different ways), the skin is an organ that is heterogeneous in color, thickness and density, so after the first procedure, the effect may be slightly different than planned. The correction makes the color more uniform, and the result is more stable and lasting in time.

Correction is designed to:

- eliminate possible color gaps;
- achieve the necessary color saturation by increasing brightness;
- correct and improve the form.

Full recovery of the skin after the procedure occurs after 28 days.

We take care of the skin after correction

Special attention should be paid to skin care after correction. Since the correction according to the principle of execution is the same as the first main procedure, the skin is repeatedly injured. She needs care that will be similar to how it was performed after the first session.

The difference in care lies only in the fact that during the correction, the eyebrows are refined in sections, so not the entire tattoo area is injured. Consequently, the skin will heal faster. Nevertheless, care is needed and it should be taken as seriously as before.


Within 3-7 days after the permanent makeup procedure, it is necessary to adhere to certain rules for skin care.

General recommendations after the procedure:

do not wet the area of the permanent makeup procedure during the day
, do not remove the resulting crusts and peeling, they should come off by themselves

During the HEALING PROCESS after the procedure, it is prohibited:

to steam in the sauna
to sunbathe / visit the solarium
to swim in reservoirs /pools
cosmetic procedures

Not recommended:

the use of decorative cosmetics in the field of permanent makeup
to use wound healing drugs
to accelerate the falling off of crusts
to use cosmetics in the field of permanent makeup
the use of greasy creams


when lymphatic fluid is released, wipe the permanent makeup area with chlorhexidine 2-3 times a day for the first day.

Why is eyebrow tattoo care so important?

All PM techniques involve injury to the dermis (even the most popular "powdery eyebrows"). In the process of tattooing, a thin needle is inserted into the upper layers of the skin, resulting in its thinning, vulnerability. Micro wounds are formed, through which infection can get if you do not take care of the skin after the procedure.

Hygiene is one of the important requirements. if you treat it negligently, the consequences are unpredictable. In the best case, the effect of permanent makeup will change, it will become ugly, the pigment may completely or partially come out, go in spots, lose its shade. At worst, an infection will be introduced, which will cause redness, suppuration and other negative reactions of the body. That's why care is so important.

The primary care is provided by the master immediately after the procedure, applying a healing antibacterial agent to the area. Next, he advises on the care of the client.

Note that care is an individual issue, it depends on the body's reaction to the eyebrow tattoo procedure itself. Sometimes the master may recommend doing nothing at all with the skin during its recovery, and sometimes he will make a list of actions and means that need to be used for a certain period of time. The key task is to follow all the actions recommended by the master.

Proper eyebrow care after tattooing = perfect result. The master is responsible for the quality of the PM, the shape and color of the eyebrows. But as soon as the client leaves the PM studio, all responsibility for all actions is further shifted to his shoulders.

In order for the eyebrows to be beautiful, the client must follow the recommendations of the master. Do not self-medicate. If an individual reaction of the body appeared in the form of allergies, redness, swelling, or an infection was introduced and suppuration formed, the client must consult a doctor and notify the master.

At the stage of skin care after permanent eyebrow makeup, it depends only on the client what the result will be.
Lip contour, shape and volume correction is one of the most popular PM procedures. Both fans of plump lips and people who are forced to correct birth defects, the consequences of injuries or age-related changes resort to the lip PM procedure.

With the help of PM, you can achieve the desired swelling, highlight the contours, change the color and size of the upper and lower lips, get rid of the drooping corners.

It must be remembered: light shades always make the lips visually fuller, and dark ones — less. If the mouth is small, then it is allowed to paint the lips to the corners, but in the opposite case, do not bring them to the corners.

Before the procedure, a few days in advance, it is recommended to take a course of anti-herpes medications. This will significantly reduce the risk of complications that may occur after tattooing.

In the area of the lips, the skin covering the outer surface of the lips gradually passes into the mucous membrane of the oral cavity.

In accordance with this, there are 3 divisions: cutaneous, transitional or red border and mucous.

The red border of the lips has a very thin and transparent stratum corneum. Numerous capillary loops, shining through the stratum corneum, give a red color to this part of the lips. A large accumulation of nerve endings (100 times more than at the fingertips) makes the lips very sensitive.

Lip correction techniques

There are well-known correction techniques in permanent lip makeup. The main changes in the shape of the lips:

lip reduction;
adding fullness to lips;
smoothing the asymmetry of the lips.

The effect of the chosen color on the volume of the lips:

the use of light and dark colors on the lips (the interaction of color rules);
getting extra volume on light and dark lips (highlights, accents).

Lips can be given an expression by changing the lip pattern in the corners:

laughing – lifting the corners;
tearful, sad – lowering the corners.

To reduce the lips, draw a clear contour and tightly paint them inside. To enlarge the lips, the contour is rearranged above the natural one, capturing the skin above the upper or lower lip, depending on which lip needs correction.

To perform permanent lip makeup in volume, you can resort to the use of glare: on the upper lip – in the proboscis, on the lower lip – on the tubercles of the lips.

Face geometry: what to consider

To create a beautiful lip contour and fullness of color, it is not enough to follow only the basic knowledge of makeup. Always take into account the general geometry of the face, as well as the principles of a harmonious combination of all its forms and the technique of introducing pigment under the skin.

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the central line that passes through the middle of the nose and chin. The tip of the nose, for example, in women more often "looks" to the right, and if the angle of rotation of the nose is pronounced, this will affect visual perception. The client may think that his lips are displaced.

Do not forget about the mimic activity in the lip area, which also affects the shape. For example, the effect of a distorted mouth, in which one side of the lips is raised and the other is clearly lowered.

If the asymmetry is pronounced, immediately draw the client's attention to it and agree on which part of the face you will start from when working with the new form. After all, by distracting attention from one flaw, you can attract it to another, much more conspicuous.

The determination of changes should be carried out in a state of physiological rest of the client's face.
Perfect lips are characterized by the same size of the upper and lower lips, not too thick and not very thin. The color is smooth, light red.
Let's consider some difficult situations that a master has to face in his work when applying permanent lip makeup.
Natural effect without a clear lip contour

The task of such work is to make the PM of the lips more expressive, using only the reception of color transmission. To achieve the "naturel" effect, the natural shape of the lips is not changed. If the border of permanent lip makeup is different, then when direct sunlight falls, the difference between the old and new borders will be very noticeable both in profile and full face.

Lips can be more or less clear – it depends on the preferences of the client. The main thing is that as a result of such a reception, the effect of "eaten lipstick" is not created. To avoid this, it is better to choose the colors of the pigment exactly in tone or slightly lighter than natural.

We start the work with a contour. To perform the basting contour, you will need a single-pronged needle. The basting contour is a reciprocating motion aimed at fixing the sketch on the skin. It is performed in the same way as applying the main contour, only with zero pressure and a fast speed of movement of the hand along the skin. This will allow you to get a smooth, but unsaturated line. It can be fixed with the main fixing line at the second pass. Remember that the contour line should be very thin and neat, uniform in color and width.

Then we change the needle to any one that is convenient for painting. The naturalness of the lip color lies in its transparency. Therefore, Flat or Magnum needles will be preferable here, since they are the ones that apply the pigment in thin layers. Do not overload the skin with color. It is enough to perform 3-4 passes for a complete painting.

Be sure to observe the tension of the skin! The most common mistakes after healing, such as unevenly placed color, spots and even a complete lack of color, are most often the result of non-compliance with the correct tension of the skin and its fixation on a small area of work. Do not try to stretch the entire upper or lower lip entirely. If you divide the lips into sections of 1-1.5 cm, it will be easier to fix the tension.

Most often, permanent lip makeup with shading is better combined with a clearly colored contour, or the contour is performed in the tone of shading. Shading is performed both on the area of the red border and stretches over the entire surface of the lips. This method is used to change the color, volume, shape, relief of its own shape.

Needles 1, 3 and 5RL are suitable for performing the contour in this technique. The more needles in the bundle, the wider, bolder the contour line and denser its color. To insert a large number of needles under the skin, you will need more effort – but not the pressure of the master! This applies only to the capabilities of the device.

Unfortunately, many craftsmen still use low-quality Chinese "pens" in their work, which injure the skin more due to the lack of power in them. Using such equipment, perform the movement more slowly and insert the needle under the skin at a sharper angle.

Fig. 1. PM lips in 3D technique and fully painted lips

The number of passes along the contour is 2-3. For a more pronounced contour, you can take a darker or richer color in the palette.

Lip painting can be done with rounds (R – round), magnums (Magnum) from 5 needles in soldering. The technique of movements can be spiral or zigzag when working with beam needles. Flat needles correspond to long or short movements that resemble working with a flat brush.

Choice of equipment

If you still have little experience, it is better to use one color in your work. The polishing specialist needs to learn how to predict the result by analyzing the "healed" colors of one or more companies in your professional arsenal. It is necessary to study the behavior of color on different skin, gradations obtained using needles of different configurations.

A specialist with sufficient experience and knowledge can try to work in layers, applying one color to another, or mixing several colors at the same time. Using this technique, you can neutralize the natural cold shade of the lips or perform a correction of the old work of permanent makeup. After that, apply the desired shade of any selected color.

Performing permanent lip makeup in 3D technique

Perhaps this is the most colorful kind of permanent lip makeup, which involves the use of color highlights to give relief to the lips. When color modeling the shape of the lips using this technique, the specialist necessarily takes into account the individual structure and the proportional ratio of the geometry of the face. If width prevails in the lips, the corners of the upper lip should stretch upwards – this may be the shape of a bow, the lower lip lightens diagonally, narrowing to the bottom of the lip, and the corners of the lips darken.

In the technique of permanent lip makeup, 3D color highlights can be applied not only to the red border of the lips, but also in the form of a light kayal above or below the contour. You can also highlight the corners of the mouth or wrinkles above the upper lip. All these techniques visually highlight the lips and rejuvenate the face.

Choosing the pigment color

This is the most interesting part of the work of the PM master. The color is selected according to the following criteria.

When performing permanent lip makeup, you can limit yourself to applying a contour, or you can try various shading options made by two-thirds or half of the red border, or fill the surface of the lips completely. Proceed from the originally set goals: to give brightness or relief to the lips, change the color, increase or decrease the volume. Using different methods of applying permanent makeup allows the lips to look natural, merging with natural colors, or, conversely, decorative.

First, determine whether you want a dense lip color or transparent. For the first, pigments of a denser texture, with a large proportion of coloring matter, are suitable. Then it is necessary to exclude colors that will not suit the client due to the presence of complimentary shades regarding her skin color, teeth, pigmentation in the application area or other unaesthetic defects.

Now it remains to determine the temperature of the desired color in accordance with the color of the lips. If you are not sure what you define correctly, take calm shades, with a reddish-orange base. This will avoid possible blueness in the healed work.

There is another interesting technique: if the lips have their own cold tone, follow the contour with a warm shade of pigment. As a result, the lips will become more juicy.

Try to adapt makeup techniques in permanent makeup. The contour of the lips should be the color of the contour of healthy lips (red-brown), while it does not matter what the main color for painting is chosen. And if you use a warm pink color, then the effect of swelling of the lips will be created.

You need to choose the color correctly, having analyzed the trend of its change well after full healing: too bright will seem provocative, cold colors will cast blue-purple shades, but the effect of mother-of-pearl can only be used by clients with perfect lips and even skin color.

Permanent lip makeup is a rather painful procedure. The choice of the type of anesthesia occurs before the procedure. Under the influence of anesthesia, even application, the lips may swell a little, and even a slight increase and deformation can distort the true shape. In addition, the master necessarily clarifies the client's tendency to allergic reactions.

We apply secondary anesthesia to relieve swelling and stop excessive bleeding during the procedure. Reducing the manifestations of edema and bleeding will allow you to apply the pigment more effectively without losing its consistency and depth of application.


Edema occurs in most cases after the lip PM procedure, shading or the use of any other techniques. Such swelling should go away within a day after the procedure.

However, the severity of edema may differ significantly. Increased puffiness may be caused by the individual inclination of the client, the characteristics of his skin (dry, thin, pasty skin).

Also, edema can be provoked by an error in the technique of PM lips. If the pigment is injected deeper than necessary, or a low-quality pigment is used, this causes increased puffiness. This is another reason why you should always work exclusively with high-quality equipment and use high-quality dyes.

Normally, the swelling completely disappears within 24-48 hours. If the swelling is accompanied by itching or rashes, this is not a manifestation of a normal reaction of the body, but, most likely, an allergy. In this case, taking antihistamines is necessary.


The cause of a hematoma may be violations of the technique of performing lip PM, or the fragility of blood vessels or taking medications containing adrenaline and epinephrine. With proper preparation and execution of the lip PM procedure, there should be no consequence in the form of hematomas. Hematomas disappear in 1-2 days, they do not affect the final result.


The skin reacts in any case to a superficial injury that occurs during lip PM (contour, shading), and such a reaction is normal. It is important to explain to the client what awaits him at each stage. Be sure to tell us in detail how to properly care for the PM of the lips.

The most important thing is to understand that we are creating lips anew. Try different techniques, improve and hone your techniques! Invest in yourself!
A request from a client for an interstitial eyelid tattoo opens up a wide field of possibilities for PM masters: from the usual filling of the interstitial space to the arrow with shading.

The PM of the eyelid contour implies, first of all, the application of pigment to the interstitial space (interstitial space), or to the eyelids (arrows).

The advantages of PM arrows include its high durability. The applied arrows can last from 4 to 10 years. The arrow can start both from the inner corner of the eye and from the middle of the century.

PM arrows with shading looks like the effect of makeup made with the use of shadows and pencil. Also, this type of PM helps to correct uneven arrows, and looks great on both the lower and upper eyelids.

Filling in the interstitial space - in which the distance between the cilia is filled with small strokes or dots - allows the eyelashes to look thicker and the eyes more expressive. Suitable for any eye shape. It can be used on both lower and upper eyelids.

Consider the basic shapes of the eyes. There are certain effects to correct each eye shape.

Oblong, narrow eyes.

In order to make the oblong, narrow eye a little rounder, draw an arrow that will not go out into the outer corner. Also, you need to draw the arrow so that its widest part falls in the middle of the century. For oblong eyes, the arrow may start from the middle of the century.

Round, Asian eyes

For round eyes, everything is exactly the opposite: to make them more elongated, draw a thin, even arrow extending beyond the outer corner of the eye. To enhance this effect, you can make a similar one on the lower eyelid, but do not connect them in the outer corner. For round eyes, draw an arrow across the entire eyelid.


When using anesthesia preparations in the area around the eyes, care must be taken: irritation and damage to the cornea may occur due to loss of protective reflexes! If it gets into your eyes, you should immediately rinse them with saline solution.

It is necessary to warn the client that after applying the anesthetic, the eyes cannot be opened. It should be explained that if she felt a burning sensation inside her eye, she should immediately inform you about it.

For anesthesia in the area around the eyes, EMLA cream or others are most often used. After applying the cream "EMLA" to the skin, the maximum severity of anesthesia develops in 30-60 minutes.
During the procedure, it is necessary to apply supportive, secondary anesthesia. Normally, edema of the eyelids can be observed for up to 2 days with a tendency to decrease.
Unfortunately, partial rejection of the pigment is quite common. Nevertheless, this can be avoided. We discuss the main reasons why the pigment may not take root. This article will be useful for both masters and clients.


This is the rare case when, after the first procedure, the pigment is evenly laid down, without gaps, and the client is satisfied with the color and its saturation. This result indicates the high professionalism of the master, who has extensive experience, excellent knowledge of coloristics and understand how a particular pigment will behave. But not only that. The client's skin condition plays an equally important role. Owners of dry skin have the most chances to get the perfect tattoo after the first procedure. In addition, there should be no signs of fibrosis, herpes, etc. on the skin.

But even if the client is 100% satisfied with the result, the master virtuoso will still find something to complain about. And this is understandable, because the masters evaluate their work much more critically than the clients. But despite any cavils, already at the first correction, the master will bring the result to the absolute ideal.


But still, after the first procedure, the pigment does not take root everywhere in the vast majority of clients. Partial pigment output occurs for the following reasons:

• incorrectly selected permanent makeup technique. For example, the use of hair technique when performing tattooing on oily skin. In this case, it is better to work in the technique of spraying or shading;

• increased lymph secretion, which pushes the pigment out of the skin and does not allow it to "take root". Unfortunately, this situation happens quite often and the reasons may be very different.

To reduce the risk of increased lymph secretion, the master can use secondary anesthesia with vasoconstrictive effect, for example, "Sustain", and the client must refuse to take alcohol at least 48 hours before the procedure;

• the pigment was initially introduced to insufficient depth. This happens when the master still has little experience, and he does not "feel" the skin well, working in the uppermost layer of the epidermis. Usually in such cases, the pigment completely disappears along with the crusts during healing. But this does not mean that you need to "dig deep" much. It is important to learn to understand at what depth the work is permissible, and constantly monitor this moment;

• use of tint pigments. In many palettes, there is a division of pigments into base and shade. The basic ones are dense, they give the desired covering effect in the work. The shades are not used independently, since they do not have sufficient density of coloring particles. Therefore, to avoid this mistake, carefully study the recommendations for the palette of pigments that you work with;

• when working on fibrous, scarred skin. The technique of performing permanent makeup on scars is radically different from the usual one. If you ignore the features of working on such skin, lack of experience or ignorance of the nuances, the pigment may completely or partially disappear after healing;

• herpes relapses. Unfortunately, in 98% of cases, lip tattooing ends with this particular nuisance. Herpes is able to "kill" all the work of the master – it spoils the contour and also affects the density of the pigment. Unfortunately, preventive measures involving taking medications do not always work. And, as experience shows, in such cases, two correction procedures are required to bring the result to the ideal;

• violation of the requirements of post–procedural care - accidental or intentional scratching and tearing of crusts, prolonged contact with steam or water provoke errors in the healing of the work;

• clients often start sounding the alarm immediately after the crusts come together, but the final stabilization of the color occurs only 3-4 weeks after the procedure. We need to be patient.
If such cases occur, the master must necessarily determine the cause of the pigment release and draw appropriate conclusions.


But there are clients whose pigment does not take root at all. According to various data, this category includes from 2 to 7% of customers. There is no clear explanation why this is happening at the moment. Our body is a complex system and many things are impossible to predict.

It is generally believed that the blame for such an outcome of the procedure may be:

individual features of skin metabolic processes (visually they are not identified in any way);
taking hormonal and some other medications;
diseases in the acute stage;
the state of immunity.

Therefore, if after the first procedure the pigment did not take root, you honestly carried out "work on mistakes", completely eliminated (eliminated) all the obvious causes of failures that we wrote about above, and the pigment continues to be rejected even after the correction procedure – it means that your client is one of those "lucky ones".

How to block an old or low-quality tattoo

Let's just say that overlap (cover up) is not a panacea. In some cases, it is necessary to resort to laser removal of the entire tattoo or part of it. If the master made coal-black eyebrows on half a face, there is nothing to disguise it. The overlap consists in changing the contours and color of the tattoo by applying new pigments according to all the rules of color correction.

This is quite complex and painstaking work, which sometimes takes no less time than the primary permanent. We will tell you how to block an old tattoo or fix a low-quality one and when it makes sense to do it.
Do not confuse a cover-up with a refresh or correction. In the first case, the master only refreshes the color without changing the shape, in the second – brings the primary tattoo to the ideal.

What defects can be corrected?

The unaesthetic color of the old permanent.

Under the influence of ultraviolet light, sebum and other factors, the shade of the pigment eventually becomes unnatural – blue, brick-red, orange. This can be corrected with a special pigment for correction.

For example, when overlapping blue tattooing of eyebrows or eyelids, yellow pigments are used, which display the tattoo in brown tones.

Asymmetry and poor shape.

If the master did not make eyebrows in the style of Brezhnev or lips like a clown, they can be corrected by slightly changing the contour. Somewhere you will have to add length or width, so that when correcting the shape, the tattoo area will increase slightly.

The floating contours of the old permanent.

Under the influence of gravity and age-related skin changes, any, even the most high-quality work, will move down a little. The overlap will correct the situation, but the tattoo area, again, will increase slightly. The photo clearly shows how the contours of eyebrow tattooing change after overlap.
Many people are interested in whether it is possible to cover the old eyebrow tattooing with microblading. Some masters undertake such work, but the result can be completely unpredictable.

Permanent makeup and microblading are completely different procedures that are performed even with different tools. The difference between the old pigment and the new one can be very noticeable. Therefore, we do not recommend doing microblading on top of an old tattoo. Why do these experiments if there is a cover up?

Another popular question is whether it is possible to overlap the old eyebrow tattoo with henna.

This is real, but the result will be very short-lived. When the henna is washed off a little (and this happens already on the 7th-10th day), the contours of the old permanent will appear through it. It looks, to put it mildly, not very.

What techniques are used?

It depends on the specific problem, as well as the technique in which the old tattoo is made. For example, a client wants to correct the asymmetry of tattooing eyebrows made by the hair method. The color suits her, unlike the shape. Therefore, there is no need to perform color correction here, it is enough to add new elements in the same technique. But to correct an unsuccessful color, a combined technique (hair + shading) is already needed.

Overlapping eyebrow tattooing in the technique of powder spraying is possible only if the primary permanent is made in the same technique, and then not always. Powdery eyebrows with significant defects in shape and color are easier to fix with classic shading.

It is not always possible to successfully correct an old tattoo for a new one in one procedure. A cover-up, like a regular permanent, is also desirable to correct a month after healing. Sometimes 2-3 correction procedures may be needed. It all depends on the initial picture.

In particularly difficult cases, when there is simply nowhere to extend or expand the old tattoo, it is impossible to do without laser or chemical removal. The choice of the technique depends on the depth of the introduction of the pigment, skin type and other factors that the master collectively evaluates at the consultation and advises the better to remove the old tattoo. It is not necessary to erase the entire drawing – it is long, painful and expensive. It is enough to remove its individual parts and adjust the shape (of course, after healing all burns).

Simulators for training symmetry (1,2) and eye (3).

In exercises 1 and 2, it is necessary to mirror the drawing as accurately as possible relative to the axis of symmetry.

In exercise 3, it is necessary to draw several lines alternately, maintaining distances of 0.5 mm. throughout the entire length of the guide line.

Good luck to you in your work, beauty and symmetry!
A face chart is a schematic image of a face on a special piece of paper. The texture of the template allows you to understand how certain dyes will behave, how they mix with each other and what kind of pigment they will give. In fact, this is a detailed sketch used to train the hands and develop a sense of symmetry without working on the model. With it, a novice master will be able to understand all his mistakes.

In the course of working out, he will feel the texture of the product better, work more actively with color, and also carefully perform shading and other PM techniques. It is important to keep in mind that on a white sheet of paint will look brighter than on the face.

Face charts can be used as a cheat sheet, which will tell you how to accurately create makeup with the designation of details and elaboration of the color scheme, how to correct the shape of the eyes, eyebrows or lips. This is an ideal way that allows you to develop the skills of drawing various strokes, making the shading smooth or, conversely, clearer. As a result of such training, it will be much easier to draw a sketch on the face.
Everyone knows that the master's work ends in his office. Further, the responsibility for the result is assumed by the client and it is in his power to provide proper home care. So,


Take Valtrex, acyclovir or other anti-herpes remedy on the day of the procedure and further according to the instructions (at least 3 days)
Apply the moisturizing gel as needed a little at a time, do not allow cracks or drying out.
In the morning and in the evening, wipe your lips thoroughly with a cotton pad / chopsticks or napkins moistened with chlorhexidine.
Brush your teeth with a dry toothbrush with paste, so that there is not a lot of foam and rinse your mouth with a glass with a straw, so that water and foam do not fall on fresh PM (the first 2-3 days until the films come off)
The first 2-3 days we drink strictly from tubes, eating as usual. Completely exclude the intake of spicy, acidic and very hot food, which can cause irritation of damaged skin.
After 2 weeks, you can use your usual glosses and lipsticks.


The first 2-3 days while there are films on the lips - do not wet, do not rub the PM zone, after washing, blot your face with a napkin, do not scratch, do not tear off the film, do not apply decorative cosmetics, do not apply masks, provide complete rest to the healing lips.
Limit physical activity for the first 3 days after the procedure.
For two weeks, give up a hot bath (shower), a visit to the bath and sauna: steaming the skin contributes to the premature discharge of crusts, which negatively affects the survival of the pigment. The swimming pool and swimming in open reservoirs are also prohibited.
Until a full recovery of 3-4 weeks, you can not do scrubbing, peeling, hardware and injection procedures, sunbathe (including in a solarium) and be in direct sunlight. Otherwise, there will be hyperpigmentation (brown spots on the lips).
90% of people have herpes virus and PM provokes it 3-4 days after the procedure. To minimize the occurrence, do not ignore the recommendations for taking anti-herpes medications. If the virus is even activated, taking the drug will not allow it to spread through the lips and beyond.